Thursday, December 20, 2001
Got down early this morning coz of the change coming and it was small but beautiful and clean so I walked down the beach to a little shorebreak style peak that a guy walking back told me about, which was a good call.
It was a left shorey between 1-3' and pure airbrushed glass with the change way over in the distance lending a grey mother-of-pearl sheen to the sea and the sky and the small crackling barrels running along the sandbank looked, from the back, like beautiful engines. One small peak cracked so cleanly and loudly that I thought it was a wave hitting a board and I looked around to see if there was another guy paddling out, but it was just the way the wave broke so cleanly on itself. Then at 9.04 am the wind swung light onshore and there was time for a couple more but the whole thing was a windy choppy mess and the carpark when I left had two cars left in it only, and the surf was gone for the day, maybe longer.
Wednesday, December 19, 2001
More fun today surfing small and peaky Gunnamatta with not too many guys around. One guy on a mal kept throwing it away each time he paddled through a wave, which was annoying if you were on that wave, but it was sunny and fun otherwise. Caught up with some friends on the beach, caught a few waves, got home in time for a late lunch. That's a good day I reckon.
Tuesday, December 18, 2001
Surfed a small and onshore Peak Rock today as the surf drought became more desperate. Very few northerlies so far this summer, and not many banks around Gunna and the ocean beaches. It was nice to get wet again!
Saturday, December 01, 2001
Its summer!!!!! But no surf this weekend by the looks of the weather; shall have to be content at the Sufriders Club Presentation night bulshitting about the good ol' days!