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>Surfin stuff<


Sunday, July 21, 2002
Another cold clear day with some swell in Western Port Bay and some good fun little waves to be had up and down the coast. And my brother and I got some to ourselves, which was nice.


Monday, July 01, 2002
Had a small but very clean surf today for the first official day of the holidays, the water colder on the hands than a couple of weeks agoa, but the sun on the back of the 4/3 steamer felt good. It was one of those days with long lulls between sets so you tended to spend the time looking down the bay at Phillip Island, or up towards Flinders and the houses you'll never live in, or talking to the other guys in the water about boards and the big swell a couple of weeks ago.

There was an old guy out on surf-ski and he had an awkward way of dragging one leg in the water that made me think for a minute it was Peg-Leg, legendary old surf-skiier who surfed this place when I first started surfing it around 1974. Peg-Leg actually only had one leg though and he used to take an orange buoy out with him and carefully place his take-off spot, way behind us shortboarders. But it wasn't him.

Later, the smell of smoke out in the wate as the offshore carried a grass-fire from somewhere hazily through the lineup and I got another couple then went in.