Sunday, September 22, 2002
Spent a couple of days surfing around Apollo Bay, the water noticeably colder but miles and miles of beautiful coastline and so much potential for surf. We watched a right-hander that we were told nobody had ever surfed, and it looked awesome on some big sets, breaking over a shallow, very flat reef. When the wave broke the white water kind of exploded out of the back, which made it seem fairly wild and dangerous. All along that coast it seems there are possibilities when the swell and wind are right, and even in these crowded days there seems to be space to be had down that way.
Thursday, September 05, 2002
It's funny how certain places you surf can give you familiar sensations and feelings no matter what the waves are like. Whenever I surf around Fairhaven there's something about the lighthouse in the distance and the small town of Lorne in the other direction that frame that place, give you this broad perspective where you look up and down the coast a lot, never at the land.
But surfing Norman Bay, at the Prom, I keep looking at the mountains at each end of the bay, but especially Mt Oberon which tumbles into the south end in great slabs of dripping rock. Or at the low ti-tree scrub between the mountains, like the opening to some jungle place, where the clouds drift to. Or, at the sandy bottom beneath my feet.The water is so clear I can't help it.