And tonight, a very different surf, onshore and about 3' with not many people around, driving down after work in bursts of rain to get some good fun ones, and one that was actually more than fun, and good.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Friday, March 21, 2003

And this week, a meeting cancelled, watching the cam, a light onshore...take the opportunity.

I find myself. walking down the old sandy track I walked first in 1973, before the houses and the national park, to a little A-frame peak, highish tide so don't surf too far or you'll end on the rocks, but you do keep surfing it coz it keeps walling up, a bit full, and peaky, but some nice lefts and the water warm and seems clean and suddenly mid-week, when you least expected it, you're surfing again.
posted by Warrick Wynne at Saturday, March 15, 2003