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>Surfin stuff<

Sunday, July 27, 2003
Yesterday, standing on the cliff checking the surf all along the bay, and two guys standing there doing the same thing, are talking about the buoy readings; on the Hoax Coast!?

So I go to the Triggers site and find this site again; still not quite sure what it all means, but it sounded all Hawaii-like just the same!

Victorian Channels Authority

Saturday, July 19, 2003
Did get a surf last night; the first for a couple of weeks, and colder than it was a couple of weeks ago. Booties mandatory, hood an optional extra for any windy days. Got my first 'ice-cream headache' as I got caught inside and had to duck dive through a couple. The waves were suprisingly glassy, and a little bigger than I thought and it was uncrowded too. Only other guy out when I first paddled out. Lasted 45 minutes and got a few, then arced up the seat warmers on the Subaru for the drive home!

Check out this new site from some of the hoaxters: a new DVD ZINE magaziney kind of thingy, which promises to be a great new innovation in the surf mag business.

First issue coming later this year.


Friday, July 18, 2003
Water temperature down to 13 degrees, the last day of the holidays, a light onshore, hardly any surfs coz I've been to NZ, the internet doesn't look good, the Trigger bros. surf report doesn' t look good....what to do?............may as well head down and have a look!

Thursday, July 03, 2003

Remember Crystal Voyager: that trippy George Greenough on a ruber flat inside the tube movie with Nat on a keelboard? I used to like the soundtrack but could never find it anywhere; so a friend digitized a tape he had. Sounds a bit noisy, but when that 'Sing a Song of Changes' song came in, it all came rushing back.

Going to NZ for a week or so tomorrow, so shall check out the surf spots when I can, though it's mid-winter and I'm not taking my board.

The first surf for a couple of weeks today, small waves, but a beautiful Winters day with very little wind, and nice left out the front of the steps. I egged the first couple at the takeoff, which was frustrating and got a rush of cold water into the wetsuit, reminding me of the truth of things. Then, as the small crew had decided I couldn't surf and started to go to drop in, the third wave worked, and I got that old old feeling back, trimming fast along the glassy sunny winter wall.

After that things got better. I got four or five good ones and everyone settled into a bit of a rhythm. The water was so clear that I could lineup where to sit by checking a big white flat rock (that I thought was a stingray at first) which was just about the spot to sit. There was a bit of SE in the swell, so some of them were swinging wide, but some were really fun.

When I came in there was a shell lying on the beach exactly where I paddled in. And not another shell up the beach either way. I took it as a good sign.